Thursday 28 November 2019

What I Did On My Holidays (Pt 1)

My First Motorcycle Holiday


Do your own thing. Paddle your own canoe.

What? No motorcycle analogies...?

As Freddie put it: 
I've gotta be cool, relax
Get hip, get on my tracks
Take a back seat
Hitch hike
Take a long ride on my motorbike
(Ready, Freddie...)



Back in March, if you recall, I had finally achieved a long standing ambition and was the proud possesser of a full motorcycle licence along with my peronal Starship Enterprise, a 2016 Suzuki Burgman 650 in white. (Poser - ed)

Easing into Spring we had done some longish day rides. A day trip to Llandudno, up to Northallerton for lunch with a good friend and even a run to Hull and back (didn't rain this time tho') to assist at an Audax control. (Long distance cycling - don't ask) Mostly motorways and dual carriageway stuff, getting used to the bike, being out in the open and building endurance as I had plans.

As luck would have it getting back on two wheels coincided with the 75th anniversary of Operation Overlord, otherwise known as D-Day. 6th June 1944. Something I'd been interested in since my teens. I'd heard of Daks Over Normandy and had been following the movement to bring a large formation of Dakotas (otherwise known as DC3s or C47s, Skytrains etc.) to England with the intention of dropping paratroops in Normandy as a tribute to the veterans. Realising that this was a once in a lifetime thing, I didn't want to miss it.

By the end of May everything was in place. Accommodation, route, ferry, the works. Set off on a Friday morning with an eye on the weather but realised that whatever the day brought I had to be in Newhaven for a midnight ferry. The journey seemed mostly uneventful, Manchester to Leeds smartly despatched. Then I ran into traffic. Leeds to Castleford was chocka - filtering (lane-splitting) was the only option. On to the A1 and the traffic was heavier but moving. More filtering but this time at around 50mph. You know the feeling that you mght be pushing your luck? That. For 50 miles. Was very happy to reach the diner at New Fox unscathed but I was way behind schedule, not for the ferry but for an important (to me, at least) rendezvous, meeting the most excellent @hardtailchop. (If you haven't heard of Charlotte before then please head over to YouTube and check out her adventures) Engineer, feminist, mother, experienced blood biker and all round damn' good egg. We'd arranged to meet at The Bike Shed and I was now worried it was all going to go wrong. Stopped for fuel at the services on the M11 next to Stanstead and it took around 40 minutes to get out again. Nearly dropped the bike, too. Gods I was late!

When you get to The Bike Shed it can be a little intimidating. For those who don't know it's a railway arch in Hackney and when you turn in off the street you ride straight into an outdoor cafe. The parking is beyond the tables but everyone's cool about it, they're expecting bikes to ride through. Nervously I weaved between the tables. Thankfully nobody moved! Parked up the bike and was met by a cry of "Shitting hell! It's enormous!" (No smut thank you very much! The Burgman is a scooter - of sorts - but it's as big as an early Gold Wing and weighs the same as a Pan European. Like I said, it's my personal Starship Enterprise and I still get a tingle every time I open the garage door.)



A very pleasant half hour in the sun catching up with a friend. Coffee, company and motorcycles in an achingly cool hangout. What more could you want? But this was just a diversion, the main event was still to come. I now had to get to Newhaven. If you look at it on a map, Newhaven is pretty much due South of where I was but crossing the Capital on a Friday evening? No, thanks! I took the coward's way out and headed for Dartford and the M25. It turned out to be a good move as you can ride a motorcycle in most of London's bus lanes and before too long I was out of the hazardous traffic, heading for the QE2 bridge. A fuel and food stop completed my longest ever ride at just under 350 miles for the day. All that remained was to board the ferry to Dieppe. There were quite a few motorcycles and plenty of cyclists, too but the most unusual vehicle was a velomobile. The engine seemed to be fuelled by crisps and chocolate...



I can never sleep on a ferry. Completely buzzed after a long day's ride and the excitement of solo travel, this was no different. Seeing the sun come up over La Cote d'Opale was a unique experience but the comedown was being biffed out on the dockside at 05:30 and queueing for passport control. We don't realise how lucky we are in the UK. Need a snack at 2:30 in the morning? There's any number of late night kebab and pizza outlets, there's McDonalds for coffee and 24 hour service stations if you need fuel or tobacco. France is a different story. I had around 8 hours to kill until the gite I'd rented would be available and it was at the most 2 hours ride away. Having been told that many bars & cafes open early in France, I headed to Rouen in the hopes that I could find a little Bar Tabac, get a coffee and some breakfast. Buttons pressed on the satnav off I went, sticking to the D & N roads. Even dawdling along - and I'll admit I was tired and flagging by now - I was outside Rouen cathedral by 7am but couldn't find anywhere open so I pressed on towards Honfleur and ultimately, Villers-sur-Mer. The sun rose and it began to get warmer, the promise of a beautiful day. Around 8 o'clock I rode past a restaurant in Toutainville and it was open. Breakfast! 



Several coffees later it was time to complete the journey. I found the gite and explained in halting (shattered) French that I was sorry for arriving early but needed to rest. Luckily they were ready. I made a brew and closed my eyes for a minute... 





To be continued...


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